Local Flavor: Eastchester Fish Gourmet’s 'Secret' Side Business

Most restaurants that specialize in fare from the sea fall squarely into one of three categories: clam shack, temple to haute cuisine or raw specialties.

Occasionally, as with Nobu (haute sushi) or the John Dory (expensive seafood shack fare), a restaurant hits brilliantly on two of the three, but it’s rare indeed that a place manages to encompass all. 

The Eastchester Fish Gourmet in Scarsdale, at once elegant and casual, serves up perfectly cooked, classically prepared seafood (Dover Sole a la Monageasque on a bed of mashed potatoes with capers, red peppers, lemon, hazelnuts with meuniere sauce for $36), in addition to more fun-loving, laid-back beach favorites (Maryland Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes with lobster sauce for $12) and raw preparations (Tuna Tartar with sticky rice and diced mango for $11 and a generous raw bar selection for $1.95 to $2.85 a pop).

Reviewed in the New York Times, countless regional publications and currently sitting pretty on Zagat’s ratings heap with an astounding 24 for food, the restaurant has been on top of its game since 1987, when Rick Ross opened the doors.

Eastchester is also widely known for its Fish Market, open since 1981 – but its secret Ace is its catering department. Scarsdale Patch recently persuaded Eastchester to show its hand.

While most catered fetes are all about the flash-frozen cocktail wieners, Eastchester provides its clients with restaurant-grade, just-caught fish.

“Our specialty is fresh fish, and with our expertise in buying, our product is the finest available,” said Monica Lavin, the office and catering manager. “Starting with an excellent product sets us apart [from other caterers]. Our reputation is very important to us, and Rick takes a very active role in catering.”

Unlike many other caterers, Eastchester is also a full-service soup-to-nuts shop, providing staff, alcohol and any necessary rental equipment for graduations, weddings, special birthdays and corporate events. While only 10 percent of its business currently comes from catering (60 percent comes from the restaurant and 30 percent from the Fish Market), its reputation for high quality, impeccably sourced seafood is drawing more clients for whom sustainability and sourcing is as important as the quality and taste of the food.

“Sustainability is very important to our business and to our customers,” Lavin said. “It affects the future of our business and the health and well-being of all of us. … We understand the concern from our customers so our restaurant menu now includes the point of origin with the description.”

Concerned catering clients can also receive details about Eastchester’s sourcing plans for their party. Another issue on everyone’s minds is the many recent natural disasters. One year after the Gulf of Mexico oil spill, fishermen have reported lesions on shrimp, crabs with holes in their shells and red snapper with rotting fins; dead dolphins are still washing up on the beaches, according to reports and studies. The U.S. has banned imports of certain foods from Japan in the radiation-affected areas, and many restaurants are avoiding all fish exports from the country.

Eastchester clients needn't fret, though.

“The recent disasters have not affected our ability to source fish,” Lavin said. “We’ve always purchased our shrimp from the west coast of Mexico. Our oysters are from the northeast and northwest in the U.S., and we do not purchase fish from Asia.”

Many Scarsdale residents are already familiar with the Eastchester Fish Gourmet and the market – their dinner prix fixe deal is a local legend (three courses for $25.95 between 5- 6:30 p.m., Monday-Wed.). But now more and more locals are betting their chips on Eastchester’s catering team as the best way to guarantee three-star food in the comfort of their own home.

For a taste of what Eastchester Fish has to offer, check out chef Arsenio Flores’ recipe for Pan Roasted Monk Fish below: 

Pan Roasted Monkfish Over Vegetables

This recipe can also be used with Striped Bass and Black Fish

Makes Four Servings

Ingredients:

• Olive oil, to taste
• 2 cups oyster and shiitake mushrooms
• 1 tablespoon fresh thyme
• 1 cup baby carrots
• 1 cup haricot vert
• 2 slices Neuske’s Applewood-smoke bacon
• 4 cloves garlic
• 2 pints whole grape tomatoes
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• Sugar, to taste
• 1 cup watercress, washed, dried, torn into bite-size shreds
• ¼ cup chicken stock, more to taste

 Method:

• Sautee oyster & shiitake mushrooms with extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper & fresh thyme
• Dry mushrooms on paper towel to remove extra oil
• Blanch baby carrots in salted water until tender and then place in ice water
• Blanch haricot vert in salted water until tender and then place in ice water
• Sauté Neuske’s Applewood -smoked bacon – approximately two slices for 4 people.  When bacon turns golden brown, add four cloves of sliced garlic and two pints of whole grape tomatoes. When tomatoes burst, add two tablespoons of red wine vinegar, two cups of chicken stock and two sprigs of fresh thyme. Slow cook until tomatoes are completely cooked and then add salt & pepper. Add touch of sugar if there's too much acid. 
• Salt & pepper monk fish (7 oz per serving) and pan roast in extra virgin olive oil until cooked golden brown.  Finish in oven in for approximately 5 minutes at 400 degrees.
• Sauté baby carrots, haricot vert, watercress and wild mushrooms in small amount of extra virgin olive oil and then add tomato vinaigrette and small amount of chicken stock.
• Slice monk fish and plate with tomato vinaigrette.

The Eastchester Fish Gourmet can be found at 837 White Plains Road in Scarsdale. The restaurant is open every day for dinner and Thursday and Friday for lunch. Call (914) 725-3450 for reservations. The Fish Market is open Monday-Friday 9 a.m.-7 p.m., Saturday from 9 a.m.-6 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m.-2 p.m.. The catering department is available year-round.